Multiplier with a fixed spool rod

Member Joined: Sep 24, 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Gosport

This question has probably been asked before but I could not see any posts that stood out to give the answer I am after. I currently have a Penn Power or ugly stick (new to this game) which is set up for a Fixed Spool Okuma reel. The reel was only a cheapy to get me going and already is making some strange sounds so time to change. Some of people have suggested getting a multiplier with levelwind and I am currently looking at the Abu 6500c powerhandle.
The confussion is how can I use a multi on a rod that was sold for a FS? In short can I use a multi on a FS rod and are the two rods designed differently to accomodate each reel type? My rod has a coaster set up.
If I buy a left handed multi as I am using my FS on my left hand and then find I don't like it and would prefer using it on the right hand am I stuck with what I've got or can multis be changed over like FS reels?
Too many questions

Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:17 am

The short answer to your question is that multis can be used with a fix spool rod but not the other way around. Most multis are right handed. Hope this helps. Cheers keith big grin

Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:58 am

If you are right handed its left hand wind for f/s and right for multi , strongest arm up the rod for casting.

Occasional Joined: Jun 29, 2008 Posts: 220

You can use them whichever way round but you will have to consider the following -

A multiplier rod generally has more rings and the butt ring will be closer to the reel (normally) which if you use a FS reel on it will increase line drag and will reduce your distances - if you are not that great a caster you won't even really notice this. If the butt ring (nearest the reel) is TOO close or TOO small the loops of line coming off the reel may also hoop round the ring and snag, causing crack-offs. Only trial and error will tell you if you can get away with it, but most of the time you can.

Using a FS rung rod with a multiplier reel has a different set of problems - casting isn't an issue but reeling in can be depending on the ring spacing. Because you retrieve with the reel on the top the extra space between the rings of a fs rod often allows the line to foul the actual blank of the rod and in some cases can cause damage - its for that reason (keeping the line clear of the blank) that multi rods have more rings. You also sometimes find if a fs rod has an oversized butt ring that the line doesn't bridge properly from the multiplier which is lower on the rod, but its rare for that to be an issue.

Just for the record you may well find that you get away with it as a lot of production rods have very little difference in their ring spacings for the two types of reel, quite often it is simply a case of bigger diameter rings and 1 less ring towards the butt end. Simple way to tell is to tie your line to something immovable, hold the rod so the fixed spool is on the TOP of the rod and bend the tip of the rod over. If the line doesn't foul the blank (the top 2 - 4 feet is where it will probably happen) you should have no problems. Its never perfect this way, but unless your on a tournament it generally isn't quite as important as a lot of people would have you beleive!

Member Joined: Sep 24, 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Gosport

Mudlark - Thank you for that information I do believe from your comments you may have saved me from buying a multiplier and not be able to use it on this rod. I think for the time being I will buy another FS and then a rod and multiplier together some time next year.

Occasional Joined: Jun 29, 2008 Posts: 220

smallbloke wrote:

Mudlark - Thank you for that information I do believe from your comments you may have saved me from buying a multiplier and not be able to use it on this rod. I think for the time being I will buy another FS and then a rod and multiplier together some time next year.

If you have a through actioned rod you will probably be better off with the FS on the rod as they have the rings quite a way apart on the tip - the more tippy rods you could probably have got away with as the rings are close at the tip.

What you could do is take the rod to a local tackle shop and try a multi on it to see if the line touches the blank under load - pick a quiet day and I'm sure most tackle dealers wouldn't mind.

Member Joined: Sep 24, 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Gosport

Mudlark - What do you mean by through action and Tippy rods. Sorry for ignorance but as stated not that converse with all the termology yet

Occasional Joined: Jun 29, 2008 Posts: 220

smallbloke wrote:

Mudlark - What do you mean by through action and Tippy rods. Sorry for ignorance but as stated not that converse with all the termology yet

To put it in simple terms its how the rod bends and is defined by the diameter of the rod tube, the degree that it tapers to the tip, the materials its made of and the thickness of the wall of the tube. Looking at the picture below the through-actioned rod is on the right - it just means that the rod bends right through towards the butt. Tippy just means it has a delicate, flexible tip and the middle and butt are reasonably stiff. The latter is common on the more powerful casting rods. A lot of the cheaper rods are fairly through actioned.

You'll see on the picture that it mentions fast, moderate etc. This relates to the taper of the rod which is one of the main factors that decides the action of the rod.