Don't Crimp Too Tight!!

Member Joined: Jul 19, 2010 Posts: 72

Hi there,
Most of you will probably already know this but if it helps at least one person then will have made a difference & hopefully improved someones fishing experience happy

Although it's not something I can admit to giving much thought all my time spent sea fishing, it came to mind yesterday while out hunting bass with my mate.
Our rigs were as simple as you can get, a 20g controller float/bead/crimp slid approx 8-12ft straight onto 12-15lb mainline with the jelly lure on the end.

He kept on having crack-offs, yes with 20g suprise

(a crack-off is your line snapping mid-cast), what was happening was the crimp holding the float back from the trace was squeezed too tight and had severely weakened the mono
Now he doesn't really hold back when flicking the lure out which puts strain on the line anyway without having to worry about weak spots in his line!

A crimp only needs to be squeezed tight enough to grip the line and stop any movement.....I've seen people's crimps squeezed so lightly they can deliberately move it given a bit of pressure allowing re-positioning

It's also important to squeeze the whole length of the crimp spreading the load so to speak.

Just an observation more than anything else, I'm certainly not trying to say this is the way it should be done by any means.....

You never stop learning and I believe all advice should at least be listened to no-matter what age you are!

If anyone has anything they'd like to add to this post then please feel free happy

Cheers & Tight Lines, Andy

Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:15 pm

Simple solution to that , use rig tubing instead of crimps a 2 -5 small bits , pass the line through each one twice and pull , makes it easy to modify rigs as well like clip downs and pompey rigs big grin

Member Joined: Jul 19, 2010 Posts: 72

An old trusty one that works well cuckoo, much obliged for that happy

I like Power Gum stop knots (not on their own though) but the telephone wire twist around the line is a good method

Anymore folks?

Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:16 am

i use the soft copper crimps,no need to plier them hard as its so easy with the steel ones to apply pressure with nothing happening then all of a sudden youve cut through the line,could probably do the copper ones with my teeth lol.ive known some guys just to tie overhand knots in the rig body to act as a stop for beads,ok if you're not power casting,ive done it myself when a crimp has for some reason come loose aslong as your just flicking gear out 30-40yrds the rig wont part ,make sure using 70lb rig body though (which i tend to use).

all the best

Andy

Member Joined: Jul 19, 2010 Posts: 72

Andy do you have an online source for those copper crimps at all mate?

I'll be honest, I've only ever seen the small dark or larger silver/metal coloured ones

The crack-off I mentioned in my first post happened with a 20g Drennan controller float on 12-15lb mainline, however!, this line was preloaded on a cheap 25 quid f/s reel he'd bought to use with a 10ft bass/flattie rod so I don't imagine it'd have been expensive line

Also, we were fishiing rubber eels for bass so a 70lb shock would bugger up the action/natural movement of the lure in this case.......a swivel on the end with a length of lighter line to the eel would work fine though huh

I'm with you 100% on the shock leader, never fish without one buddy, for beachcasting the rough approximation of 10lb for every ounce of lead is a good guide?, I'd imagine a 60lb B.S shock leader should suffice in most situations imo?

Another stop-knot method similar to the overhand knot in the rig body I like is using Power-Gum!, not what it's intended use is but it does work for lighter tackle but there's no-way I'd trust it for anything like a 5 or 6oz lead worried

A few good tips, anymore there to be shared?

Regular Joined: Jul 26, 2009 Posts: 343 Location: Surrey

I'd be inclined to tie a swivel into the rig with the float on the mainline above.

Member Joined: Jul 19, 2010 Posts: 72

Iknowagoodplaice wrote:

I'd be inclined to tie a swivel into the rig with the float on the mainline above.

That's the way I fish using the same type of controller float, the trace from the swivel of lighter line to the lure for more natural movement

I think the mainline right through thing was to simplify things as much as possible due to lots of tangles using the swivel & trace?

not sure if the length of trace used would contribute to causing more tangles or not tbh?, roughly the length of my rod I find works well for me

Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 10:28 am

Esskie wrote:

Andy do you have an online source for those copper crimps at all mate?

I'll be honest, I've only ever seen the small dark or larger silver/metal coloured ones

The crack-off I mentioned in my first post happened with a 20g Drennan controller float on 12-15lb mainline, however!, this line was preloaded on a cheap 25 quid f/s reel he'd bought to use with a 10ft bass/flattie rod so I don't imagine it'd have been expensive line

Also, we were fishiing rubber eels for bass so a 70lb shock would bugger up the action/natural movement of the lure in this case.......a swivel on the end with a length of lighter line to the eel would work fine though huh

I'm with you 100% on the shock leader, never fish without one buddy, for beachcasting the rough approximation of 10lb for every ounce of lead is a good guide?, I'd imagine a 60lb B.S shock leader should suffice in most situations imo?

Another stop-knot method similar to the overhand knot in the rig body I like is using Power-Gum!, not what it's intended use is but it does work for lighter tackle but there's no-way I'd trust it for anything like a 5 or 6oz lead worried

A few good tips, anymore there to be shared?

I'm sure I got my copper crimps from Veals,Cheers,Mick big grin

Member Joined: Jul 19, 2010 Posts: 72

I had a look at Veal's just now and can only see brass crimps?

those the ones you mean?

Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:52 pm

Esskie wrote:

I had a look at Veal's just now and can only see brass crimps?

those the ones you mean?

No-if you look again in rig making bits you should find the soft copper crimps listed as"copper stops",Cheers,Mick big grin

Member Joined: Jul 19, 2010 Posts: 72

Found em mate big grin

£2.30, £3P+P, 40p VAT gives me a total of £5.70 but that's for a 100 so that's not that bad huh?

Just been having a wee look around while I was on the site and there's some bits & bobs I could be doing with re-stocking so the P+P on the total weight would work it'self out depending on how much it all cost

Their bait Alvey 30mm x 850mm pumps are reasonably priced!, Glasgow Angling Centre has that very pump priced at over £70! confused

Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:47 pm

Esskie wrote:

An old trusty one that works well cuckoo, much obliged for that happy

I like Power Gum stop knots (not on their own though) but the telephone wire twist around the line is a good method

Anymore folks?

Re a previous post of mine on this subject-seen carp anglers use soft rig tubing with a power gum knot round it a an adjustable stop for controller floats(rig tubing helps stop damage to line)you could also try the telephone wire round some rig tubing,hope this helps,tight lines,Mick big grin

Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:15 am

I use the bead itself by passing the line through several times, so avoiding the use of stop knots ect, looks a bit ungainly but it works.
Cheers
keith big grin

Member Joined: Jul 19, 2010 Posts: 72

It's only the fish that'll see it anyway Keith winking

if it works then that's all that matters huh?.......12Lb mono should pass through an 8mm no problem aye?

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:53 pm

Every time you pass the line twice through a bead or rig tubing you're severely reducing the breaking strain of the line ........ don't do it - use crimps or independent stop knots !

Dave